The cold air starts to affect your fingers’ agility as you lace up your climbing boots and step into your crampons. Looking around at the towering cliffs and walls of ice that surround you, you’re nervous, but excited. It’s the first time you’ve ever worn full spikes on your shoes, much less climbed a wall of ice. But you listen to your guides telling you how to put on your crampons and the proper technique for walking in them. And you follow when they begin the hike along the snow-packed trail to the base of your first climb.

For many, ice-climbing is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, a say-you-did-it, or epic Instagram moment. For others, it becomes a way of life. Take power-climbing couple Andrea and Steve Charest as an example. Co-owners of Petra Cliffs Indoor Climbing Center and Mountaineering School in South Burlington, both have been climbing since they were kids—Andrea since her late teens and Steve since age 10—and guiding since the early 2000s. Steve is now an Aspirant IFMGA, which is the equivalent of a PhD. in the guiding world. Andrea, too, has a variety of certifications under her belt. They have made it their business to get others out there to try climbing as well.

The two bought Petra Cliffs in 2012 after each had worked there for more than a decade. Steve started as an intern in the mountaineering school, and after moving up in the ranks, it was Steve who hired Andrea in 2001 to organize the gym’s birthday party program. Since then, the two have worked together to build a strong climbing community through Petra, and now offer a variety of opportunities for climbing and outdoor adventure, including indoor climbing at the gym and rock climbing, backcountry skiing, mountaineering, avalanche training, and ice climbing through the mountaineering school.

“What I love about Vermont is not only the community we are in, but the strong community that is building climbing—developing places like Smugglers Notch and Falls of Lana,” said Steve. “Not to mention we are ideally located with crags all around us locally, and it’s just hours to Cannon Mountain, a couple of hours to the Chic-chocs, and a couple of hours to the Adirondacks.”

There’s no reason not to get out and try climbing. It doesn’t matter if it’s your first time. According to Andrea, “It’s better when people don’t have rock climbing experience when they first go ice climbing. Green climbers are great. No climbing habits already set in place that way.” 

And when you take a class through Petra Cliffs, Andrea, Steve, or another certified guide makes sure you have everything you need to start your day ice climbing fully prepared. Before you even step out into the cold, you will be given a list of items that you need to have to make a day out in the Vermont winter enjoyable, and more importantly, safe. There’s the gear: ice axes,

crampons, a harness, and a backpack. Then there’s the clothing, the layers of clothing, with everything from long underwear and gloves (more than one pair) to gators (which will stop your crampons from ripping holes in your pants) to the almighty and most important down jacket. Many of these items can be rented through Petra, so there’s no need to spend hundreds of dollars on everything before you even know if you like the sport.

Then it’s time to find out where you’re going. Depending on your ability level, there are a handful of amazing spots around Vermont and even into New Hampshire, a mere two- to three-hour drive from downtown Burlington. If you’re a competent climber looking to up your skill or just want a fun challenge, then Lake Willoughby in Westmore, VT, or Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire’s White Mountains are for you. The Quarry, a 30-minute drive from downtown Burlington has a great beginner wall full of climbs as well as a couple of long, sustained columns where veterans can test their endurance.

Nestled between Jeffersonville and Stowe along Route 108, however, is the jackpot of Vermont ice climbing, Smugglers Notch. Described by Andrea as a “little slice of Alaska,” Smuggs gives climbers a true backcountry feel with high cliffs, secluded climbs, and the variable, ever-changing weather.

The area’s number of climbs makes it the perfect spot for beginners and experienced climbers alike. From the 40-foot Workout Wall, an easily accessible, short single pitch area with a high number of climbs, to multi-pitch classics like Jeff’s Slide, Blind Fate, or Dave’s Snotsicle, Smuggs has everything from moderate gullies to steep, mixed climbs. And the views are incredible. With Route 108 closed to traffic in winter, there are no cars, which makes it very quiet. It’s a silent, snow-covered world just waiting for you to climb it.

“When I moved to Burlington, my co-worker and friend used to talk about how much she loved ice climbing and showed me pictures of Smugglers Notch in the winter,” said Brittany Garland, whose love of ice climbing started in 2012 with a lesson from Andrea.

“I thought my friend was crazy! It’s very cold, and you’re climbing ice. Who does that? Well, soon after that, I started climbing at Petra Cliffs and slowly overcame my fear of heights. For Christmas that year, I was given a women’s ice climbing lesson through Petra.” 

A mix of nerves and excitement is to be expected as you hike in—which can sometimes be a workout in and of itself—to the chosen climb. This is when properly layering your clothing is very important. Guides will go over what you should wear for the hike in. You may be surprised to learn it’s better to start cold because you’ll heat up fast and don’t want to get too sweaty, lest it be harder to warm up again with wet clothes on. 

“Your biggest challenge is going to be the cold,” both Steve and Andrea agreed. And, as guides, they work hard to keep you moving. 

“Our first day out was extremely cold, but it flew by as Andrea kept us entertained and busy between climbing and teaching us amazing dance moves that kept us warm,” said Brittany.

Once you reach the base of the climb, put on your down jacket, have a snack and a hot drink, and then get the ice tools in your hands. Practice swinging them against the ice while you stand on the ground to get a feel for how they work. 

Depending on your location, your guide will set a top-rope or lead up the pitch. They will make sure you are properly in your harness and tied in to the rope. Then it’s your turn. After making sure your belay is on—meaning the person securing the rope is ready—it’s time to climb. 

It may feel a little awkward as you get started—one axe in, then two, one foot up, then two. Trusting your feet is the hardest part. How a point that small can hold up your entire body weight is somewhat mind-boggling, but it works. You can tell when you get a good stick with an axe, and it’s easy to let your mind relax a bit at that point (no pun intended).

Beginners often over-grip the axe, much to the chagrin of their forearm muscles, and the blood desperately trying to reach their fingers. It’s cold, your hands are above your head, your fingers are numb, and just holding on to the axe becomes a challenge. Drop your hand down and rest it, and keep kicking those points in and swinging those axes.

“With every client there’s one a-ha moment, which makes it all worth it,” said Andrea. “We always celebrate that success, and take a ton of pictures, and then start talking about the next opportunity. You hit one goal, there are five more waiting for you.”

The goal at this point in the day is warming those fingers back up. When the blood starts pumping back through it can be painful, but it’s an ice climber’s rite of passage. Referred to as the “screaming mimis” or “screaming barfies,” it’s an experience not soon to be forgotten. While the pain doesn’t last long, you will probably need to take a moment for yourself to get through it.

Cold temps and painful fingers are quickly forgotten as you ascend your climb. Upon reaching the top, the world opens up, and the views are fantastic.

“Somehow, this sport has taken over my entire winter life,” said Brittany. “There’s nothing like being at the top of an ice climb looking down at what you just accomplished, and taking in the views of the snow-covered mountains and land below.”

It’s experiences like these that have helped Petra grow into what it is today. “We know what works,” said Steve, “and we focus on our passions: the mountaineering school, the indoor gym, and the kids’ programs.” 

Since taking over the gym four years ago, the two have doubled the number of user days in the mountaineering school, started managing the Smuggs Ice Bash, increased the indoor gym membership, and grown the kids’ summer camps from seven kids a week for five weeks to 50 kids per week for 11 weeks.

“I think it’s about adjusting to the need,” said Andrea. “We haven’t been afraid to change things up.”

Looking to the future, they want to build a larger gym. While climbing in New England is great, they hope to open up clinics and guiding services to include trips across the United States and internationally.

“Petra’s guides are all extremely knowledgeable and focused on safety. The best part is that they know how to balance safety and fun; they know how to make the experience the best for you,” said Brittany. “I know that after each clinic, I have walked away with more knowledge of the sport and skills. I think they do a wonderful job at making ice climbing available for all abilities.”

Whether or not you have become addicted to ice climbing by the end of your day or view it as something you can now check off your bucket list, there’s nothing that can take away the experience. One of the best parts of that experience is finding a warm pub, a hot meal, and a cold pint with your climbing crew at the end of the day, and reliving the memories of your climb.